• The Pacific Public Transportation Computing v.2 Art

  • Southwest Bolivia

    Written by Brian David Crane on May 27th, 2005

    NOTE: For a brief round-up on the troubles going on in Bolivia right now, check out Cordillera. CHEAP - it was all-inclusive (including the llama dinner on Wed. night)! Let me first say that the trip was fantastic -everything that was promised to us was completed and we visited some amazing places that, without the trip, would have been geographically impossible.We crossed the Chilean-Bolivian border at Itocajones where we saw 4 different bicyclists riding against the 30 mph wind in maybe 35 degree weather. Impressive! I spilled the thermos of hot water so the breakfast of bread rolls with jelly and tea was cut a bit short. I did quickly change into my long underwear, though, as the temperature was absolutely freezing and, as I was soon to find out, there is no heat anywhere in Bolivia. We traveled in Toyota Land Cruisers (our group turned out to be 13 people from a variety of countries: U.S., Canada, Germany, Switzerland, Austria, France, Ireland, and Sweden). For some reason, I was separated from D&G (maybe they were tired of me?!?!) and rode in Hernans car (our driver) with a couple from France and a couple from Ireland-Sweden (who spent the last three years living in Sydney, Australia). On Tuesday, we visited Laguna Blanca, Laguna Verde, Rocas de Salvador Dali, Laguna Salada (with aguas terminales the geysers at Sol de Mañana, and Laguna Colorada. Each site was absolutely spectacular as we traveled across the desert in our 4×4s with all of our bags strapped on top. My favorite places were Laguna Verde (a huge green lake cast under a variety of snow-capped mountains in the middle of the desert Laguna Salada (where we took off our shoes and sat in the 85 degree water for 20 minutes in the 30 temp where ID= the geysers (what a moon-like landscape with steam and bubbling grey pools! and Laguna Colorada (with pink flamingoes bathing in the freezing red water).Our base camp for the night was unbelieavbly cold with temps of -15 outside and maybe 0 inside. My stomach was acting up again but I managed to talk with everyone (including Kori and Chad from Texas who turned out to be Libertarian political consultants) - we ate soup and spaghetti - the tour included a Bolivian woman cook who traveled with us - the food and the company were fantastic. Bolivia is unbelievably poor - I mention that as I saw the cooking conditions on the trip and here in Uyuni…you have to watch your health as nothing seems to be clean (yet what an adventure!).Wednesday saw us continue towards Uyuni, Bolivia as we stopped at the Arbol de la Pierda (rock forest Laguna Honda, Laguna Charcota, Laguna Hidionda, Laguna Cañapa, Volcan Ollague, and finally resting at the Salar de Chiguana. The scenery was stunning - it is amazing to me that Lord of the Rings was not filmed here as the terrain is from a different world. I loved Laguna Cañapa as we stopped for lunch at the foot of the lake and ate in what has to be one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. Wednesday night in the Hotel de Sal (sitting against the Salar de Uyuni - the largest and highest salt lake in the world) was great as we ate llama, took our first hot shower in two or three days, and enjoyed our second and last night together as a group. We played a card game called Chancho (pig in spanish) that D&G and I learned in Cordoba - it was a success with everyone. I originally thought I had a room to myself but, when I was ready to sleep, I found a Bolivian sleeping in my bed - pretty funny as I am not sure why he chose my room (I had two beds) but he managed to get under the blankets without moving any of the clothes on the bed. The night was not nearly as cold as the previous one.As for today, I was the last to rise (as I was the last to go to bed after talking with another tour group the night before that was in the same hotel). After a breakfast of hot chocolate, bread rolls, egg, dulce de leche, and butter, we left to visit the Salar de Uyuni. What a interesting place as I have never seen the Great Salt Lake in Utah but this place is dry as a bone and you can lick the floor to taste the salt (pictures to follow). It looks the same as snow but is hard as bone. Afterwards, we visited the Isla de Pescado (or Incahuasi a rock formation in the shape of a fish in the middle of the salt flats with cactus everywhere - basically rising directly out of this sea of white. Afterwards, we visited the Montones de Sal (salt mountains) and Colchane, where the salt from the Salar de Uyuni is harvested.Now, we are in Uyuni, Bolivia for the night (after uneventfully trying to get a 4×4 south to the Argentine border). Everything has worked out for the best, though, as Uyuni is famous in Bolivia for its fair of fake goods. I have bought some Adidas pants, two pairs of thermo gloves, a scarf, and a blanket for about $15. It is fantastic (as is Bolivia in general). I felt unsafe at first here but now I feel safer than I have felt in some parts of Argentina (maybe because I am substantially bigger than all of the Bolivians?!?). Anyway, I am off to bed as I am quite tired from writing all this. Leave me a comment or (even better) visit the places I have mentioned and decide for yourself if this area is one of the best in the world (I think so!).

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    2 Responses to “Southwest Bolivia”

    1. The awe-inspiring pictures and summary of your adventure have left me speechless. Thank you

    2. Awesome pics bro, glad to finall see that the camera survived the moto crash

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